Hawaiian Feather Lei History and Significance

Hawaii is well-known for its beautiful beaches, inviting tropical weather, and dynamic cultural history. A widely recognized symbol of Hawaiian culture is the lei—a stunning necklace composed of flowers, leaves, or feathers. Although many individuals recognize flower leis, they possess a unique and deep cultural importance.

In contrast to ordinary decorations, feather leis have significant spiritual and historical significance. Hawaiian culture has treasured them for generations, as families have handed down the art of creating them throughout the islands. Every lei acts as a link to the land, forebears, and the environment. This blog will explore these valued Hawaiian symbols' history, significance, and artistry. 

History of Feather Leis 

Feather leis, referred to as "lei hulu," are significant in Hawaiian heritage and have been valued for many years. These beautiful leis are made by talented craftsmen using feathers from local Hawaiian birds such as the 'i'iwi and 'apapane.

Crafting a feather lei is a careful and cherished tradition. Hawaiian feather leis are revered symbols of power and status, worn only by members of Hawaiian _alii_ (the nobility).  Artisans meticulously choose and position each feather to create detailed and unique designs, changing every lei into a masterpiece. Handed down across generations, this custom represents the deep cultural bond between Hawaiians, their ancestry, and the environment.

Feather leis possess profound cultural importance in Hawaii. They represent the elegance of the islands and the creativity of its inhabitants. Despite difficulties throughout the years, they continue to be a valued tradition.

Initially, Native Hawaiians made feather leis to pay tribute to their gods and leaders. These stunning artifacts were not merely adornments—they symbolized reverence, authority, and spiritual ties. Feather leis remain a special aspect of Hawaiian culture, showcasing Hawaiian society's lasting fulfillment and skill. 

Boris Huang: A Modern Feather Lei Master

Boris Huang of Oahu was mentored by noted feather lei master Aunty Mary Lou Kekuewa. Today, Boris creates original lei hulu patterns featuring various natural and dyed hues with goose, pheasant, duck, and peacock feathers. His designs have been showcased at special events, fundraisers, and awards ceremonies.  

The Cultural Significance of Leis

A lei is an age-old symbol of Hawaiian love and should be passed down from generation to generation. From greeting someone new to thanking a colleague or memorializing loved ones who have passed on, creating and wearing leis is an integral part of Hawaiian culture and must continue into future generations.  

Feather leis carry deep cultural importance in Hawaiian tradition. People utilized them not merely to honor gods and chiefs but also to represent hierarchy and position.

The more complex and uncommon the feathers integrated into a lei, the greater the status of the individual wearing it. Individuals also presented feather plumes to express affection, esteem, and appreciation. Individuals frequently wore them during important events, like weddings, hula shows, and rituals. 

The Art of Featherwork Today

Today's art of featherwork is flourishing. Artists use pheasant, grouse, and other endemic bird feathers in their creations; finding suitable colors may prove challenging. The Bishop Museum features an impressive collection of vintage Hawaiian featherwork, including cloaks and capes made of feathers and royal staff of feathers adorned with images depicting feathered gods and images made out of feathers.  

These intricate pieces provide a fascinating glimpse into featherwork's artistry and cultural significance in Hawaiian history. Visitors can admire the craftsmanship and learn about the deep-rooted traditions behind these remarkable creations.

Feathers as Markers of Rank and Spiritual Strength

Early Hawaiians used color and feathers as rank, lineage, and aumakua affiliation markers. They believed feathers contained mana (spiritual strength) from birds' communion with heaven. Hulu manu helmets bestowed upon ali'i were created from these feathers. Something similar can be seen on Spanish soldiers and Tibetan monk helmets, suggesting contact between Hawaiian dynasties and civilizations across the Pacific Basin.  

The Feather Collectors of Old Hawaii

Poe kahai manu were professional feather collectors of old Hawaii who traversed forests on foot to gather feathers, imitating bird calls and using sticky fruit from papala kepau trees to capture native honeycreepers. They gathered feathers from birds like the iiwi, akakane, and mamo species.

While the latter two were more frequent species, the rare mamo was prized due to its long, fine feathers. These Hawaiian birds are no longer used to make any feather lei.

Prepping feathers takes 10-12 hours before beginning construction of 12-inch leis, which requires another 10-40 hours to complete.

Preserving the Legacy of Featherwork

Once considered the domain of only Hawaiian royalty, feather work is now practiced by many talented kupuna (feather artists). They invest their time and aloha in teaching young artists this delicate craft while creating pieces that pay homage to their heritage.  

By teaching the delicate techniques and cultural significance behind featherwork, these artisans ensure that the legacy of this ancient practice lives on. Each handcrafted piece is a tribute to Hawaii's rich history, honoring the artistry and dedication of those who came before.

The Value and Symbolism of Featherwork

Native Hawaiians revered featherwork like gemstones; it held immense value and potency. Crafting feather lei or cloaks could take months or generations. Only the most skilled artisans were entrusted with the task, ensuring that each piece honored tradition and its intended wearer.

Featherwork was often gifted as a sign of deep respect or worn during important ceremonies, further emphasizing its sacred role in Hawaiian society. Today, these artifacts remain a testament to the artistry and cultural depth of the Hawaiian people.

Feathers as a Symbol of Rank and Honor

Ancient Hawaiian lei were symbolic gifts and expressions of love, friendship, celebration, and honor; they could also indicate rank and status. Alii royalty held special significance when wearing leis from precious materials such as feathers.  

Conclusion: The Continuing Tradition of Feather Lei Making

Featherwork remains a vibrant and cherished tradition in Hawaii, with artisans continuing to preserve the intricate craft of lei hulu. While modern materials have replaced the feathers of native Hawaiian birds, the artistry and cultural significance remain unchanged. Each feather lei represents a deep connection to Hawaiian heritage, carrying forward the legacy of the past into the present.

Hawaiian feather work remains vibrant today. Boris Huang is one of several feather lei masters continuing the tradition passed down through generations. Boris creates exquisite lei hulus in all Martin & MacArthur stores in Hawaii.  

His work showcases the beauty and cultural importance of lei hulu, ensuring that future generations can appreciate and continue this extraordinary craft.

Martin & MacArthur stores in Hawaii offer beautifully handcrafted feather leis and other traditional Hawaiian artistry for those looking to own a piece of this timeless tradition. These pieces symbolize Hawaii's rich cultural heritage, whether as a personal keepsake or a meaningful gift.

 

FAQs

The traditional process of lei hulu creation includes carefully choosing, cutting, and tying feathers with delicate thread and organic glues. The will (wrapping) technique is frequently employed, with feathers securely wrapped around a cord to form complex designs.

Feather leis were traditionally set aside for ali‘i (royalty) because of their scarcity and artistry, whereas the general populace typically donned flower, shell, and seed leis. In contrast to flower leis, which are short-lived, feather leis are long-lasting and represent prestige and spiritual strength.

It was thought that feathers held mana (spiritual energy) since birds were regarded as intermediaries between the mortal and the divine. Chiefs donned feathered capes (‘ahu‘ula) and helmets (mahiole) as representations of their divine authority, underscoring their significance in Hawaiian mythology.

Because of conservation regulations, native Hawaiian bird feathers are now prohibited from use. Artisans utilize ethically sourced feathers from non-indigenous birds such as pheasants and roosters, frequently coloring them to mimic traditional hues.

Many believe feather leis serve only as decoration, yet they carry profound cultural importance. Some think they're crafted from endangered birds, but contemporary artisans utilize eco-friendly materials. The tradition continues to thrive as artists maintain the craft in the present day.